The Day Before Yesterday (internet has been hard to come by)

The plan was that I would go to church with Edem (he is a Roman Catholic) and then we would go to the market and also to where the Electronic Waste is dealt with in Accra.  We woke up early so that we could be at his church by 7:30am.  What ended up happening was that we got ready (as well as one of his precious nieces) and were preparing to go to church, but Edem began to have such awful pain with his upper arm and shoulder that it was difficult for him.  Still, he wanted to go and take me with him to church.  He served me breakfast, which consisted of vitamin enriched cocoa and buttered bread.  The bread was so delicious and fluffy… I am not sure what kind it was exactly, though.  After that, we were on our way.  His niece of around 8 years old wore a precious little pink dress and was very happy and smiley.  As we walked to church, his pain became almost unbearable.  I strongly recommended that we turn back and that he see a doctor and he finally relented. 

When we got back to his home, we were disappointed because we really wanted to go to church.  We changed and walked to the clinic.  His niece stayed home with her sister and mother who were home doing laundry with the rainwater in a metal tub and doing other housework such as cleaning the kitchen and washing dishes.  The first clinic we visited was not as kind to him as he expected.  He has been a patron there for some time.  The nurse took his vital signs and then he waited.  She already took 5 GHC from him, but then later returned and told him that the doctor could not see him today.  He became upset about it and she told him further that he still owed money to the clinic from visits in the past.  He argued with her because he felt like they were blowing him off and because they didn’t tell him in other visits about this money that was owed.  He couldn’t understand why on earth they didn’t mention this any other time before.  It puzzled me, too.  He finally got his money back and opted to go to a different neighboring clinic. 

When we reached the other clinic, an older woman that was a nurse there helped him.  But she only talked to him and made recommendations about how to deal with his pain until the following day.  She spoke with him for around 30 minutes and we headed back to the house.  He seemed disheartened and his pain was still bothering him.  I gave him a couple advil and he slept.  I worked on a few things in the meantime and napped as well. 

The Market

Later that day, he was feeling well enough to go to the market.  We had a small lunch before we left.  It took several taxis to get there.  Sunday is a calmer day there, so this was a good introductory day.  I got many pictures and video from the taxi rides and while out walking around.  I was blessed to meet several people while we were out on our journey. 

The market consisted of a variety of Ghanaians.  The vendors walked around with some merchandise while others set up spots along the edges of the street and walkways.  I also saw a few kayayei at work.  One of them was a man.  Edem helped me to distinguish a kayayo from a vendor with merchandise on their heads.  They kayayei work for the vendors, the vendors purchase things in bulk and work for themselves.  As we walked a few people called out to me to purchase from them, but it was never overly aggressive.  The only time that I felt concerned was when I took a picture of a produce section of the market and one of the women called out to me, “why are you taking pictures?!”  Men there with machetes also called out to me from behind a large carcass of meat to buy from them.  I felt guilty about taking the picture…  I don’t want anyone to feel offended.  Edem just smiled at me.  I asked him what it would be like if I was there in the market alone without him.  He told me that people would be calling out to me from all directions and much more aggressive, but that I would not be in danger.  Still, I believe that I might have felt quite overwhelmed.  I was so thankful to Edem for going with me.  He has been an unbelievable host and friend.

Abogblushi (still not sure I spelled that right)

This is where the scrap dealers work.  The scraps are from America and other first world countries dumping their electronic crap in Ghana.  Is this a politically arranged deal?  I am not sure… but I DO know that the pollution is horrific.  I met a group of kayayei here.  Edem did not speak their language, but we were able to quickly find an interpreter to help us.  We got a general idea about their situation from them, but we kept things very surface…just let them know that we wanted to help them if they felt they needed it.  It was a short conversation and they were very welcoming even though a little startled by our encounter.  One of the girls brushed off the bench with her hand for me to sit there.  They all had babies and unabashedly nursed as we spoke to them.  They were between the ages of 12-17 and all lived in a group home.  The consensus was that they were part of a somewhat organized system and that they would be returning north once they made the money that they needed.  The fathers of the children were up north as well, but it is too violent for the children and too harsh of an environment.  Even this life was a better opportunity for their survival.  They did not express concern about sexual assault… however, we feel that it may because they need to know those who ask them about this much better first.  The issue was not pressed whatsoever. 

This is really sad, though.  The water was obviously toxic–bubbling with chemical reactions and bluish.. there were no signs of life in it.  Homes that were made of scraps were huddled together among puddles of sludge and garbage.  When we first arrived, I got strange looks.  However, Edem managed to help me to interact with the people safely.  Soon, they were coming from all around and wanting to know me.  They were smiling and wanting their pictures taken, and we were soon joking happily with each other.  I was welcomed to walk deeper into the mess to take pictures.  I couldn’t help but feel a very deep respect for the people’s resilient spirits.  Our fellow human beings… part of our human family…  They are living like this.  WHY????  Why should they have to live like this while we only grow spoiled because we don’t have the next best thing or can’t do all that we simply want to do (rather than need.)  Why can’t we sacrifice more of ourselves for each other???  We are all connected.  There is no real bubble of close loved ones with outsiders to disregard.  To disregard these people, is to ultimately disregard ourselves, our loved ones, and our children’s future for a better world.  Even in this place, a divine light shines brightly.  Ghana has a beautiful divine light… America could learn much from it if only we weren’t so self-righteous about how great we are.  There is much strength and beauty to humbleness…

 

Trouble… can my research continue?

Later after returning home, I decompressed and napped.  Edem even tried to wake me for dinner, but I was exhausted emotionally and physically.  I finally woke up a while later.  They had saved me a plate for dinner.  Edem and I talked for a bit and he was feeling ok.  We decided to go out for a drink at a local hangout there.  The place had a very nice relaxing feel with nice music and a large screen showing a television show of some kind.  We sat outside and I had a Milky beer called Castle while he had a Guinness Malt.  As we sat there and took in  all that was around us, I got a phone call.  It was my superior, Dr. Gilbert from UT.

She was very upset with my decision to go about things this way and feared for my safety.  She doubted my friendship with Edem and demanded that I return to the Miklin Hotel in Accra immediately and that I email her and others once I got back.  I tried to argue that everything was fine and I was well taken care of.  Regardless, she told me that all Ghanaians are nice, but that doesn’t mean that Edem is my friend.  She insisted that I go back to Miklin.  I finally relented…

After I hung up the phone, Edem and I discussed how disappointed we were in the whole situation.  We talked about how important it is to really know the people and not just stay in a hotel and interact briefly with locals as an outsider.  We talked about how the quality of the research is affected due to assumptions about people being confused with truths, and how this is what builds the wall between “us” and “them”.  We talked about how people are so afraid of Africans, but that it is unnecessary.  We talked about how high the rates of murder and rape are in America and other more developed countries, and that in Ghana, the numbers are actually less.  Not once since I have been here have I felt scared.  Everyone has been nothing but kind… of course, I have been with a Ghanaian who was kind enough, himself, to escort me around.  Regardless, the people here are much more beautiful than many realize. 

We walked back, frustrated, but not defeated.  We discussed that at least this was a start, and it was a good one.  I have grown to love this amazing place… and I intend to come back.  Kind and loving people are here… Why should they be taken advantage of for the natural resources that they live among?  Why should they be dumped on?  Why should they be stigmatized?  Why should they be disregarded???  We must bridge understanding with them… They simply want to be respected, understood, and regarded as equal in the global community.  We owe it to them… we have so much of the things that we have because of their people, believe it or not.  In my opinion, our interconnectedness in this human family should be enough of a reason to be open towards each other.  However, it even makes sense from an economic standpoint.  You should never shit where you eat.  What I mean when I say that is that you should never harm those that nurture you.  Another saying is, “don’t bite the hand that feeds.”  How many more ways do I need to put this so that it sparks concern enough in others to give a damn??

 Now…

 It is almost 2pm and I am waiting still for Dr. Gilbert to show up so that I can get the tongue-lashing that is coming my way.  I have packed all my things and I am in the hotel lobby.  So far, I have managed to make several friends in the hotel.  One is a man named Prosper, who has told me that when I come next time with my boyfriend, I only need to tell him ahead of time and he will help me to get a discounted rate at the hotel.  We shared information and plan to keep in contact with each other.  Another friend is Eric.  He talked with me about God and faith and the importance of putting our trust in him because he will provide for us.  Something about our encounter felt very comforting and reassuring.  I was truly grateful for his time.  He also went out of his way to better explain the regions in Accra.  He called a friend for a map and when he couldn’t get in touch with them, he went and borrowed one and came back.  He was a very kind person, and he offered to take me around for my safety later on if I needed his help.  As I have been in the lobby typing all of this and waiting for Dr. Gilbert, a man by the name of David came and sat down to talk to me.  He was very kind and friendly.  He laid it on pretty thick though about how he will one day come to America to find me, meet my parents, marry me, and bring me back to Ghana.  Ha!  So funny.  I don’t take it seriously at all, though.  I am not concerned.   I already have a wonderful boyfriend back home who loves me dearly and that I also love.   I am aware that many men would love to marry for the Green card to become American.  He told me that my boyfriend may like me… but that he, himself, loves me.  Then he gave me his information.  I didn’t respond much back to that, though… and now he is afraid to look at me, I think.  So anyhoo… this friendship may not blossom into much of anything after all.  That’s my day so far.  It is pouring rain out… the lights flickered on and off for a bit.  The Internet is still down.  It hasn’t been working since I got here last night.  I am running out of things to do.  I have worked on refining my research.  I don’t know what else to do at this time to be honest.  Quite frankly… I’m upset about this day being eaten up like this… but meeting these few individuals has been worthwhile…particularly Prosper and Eric.