Yesterday… wrote this last night before bed.

It has been an incredible day.  There is a lot to share.  Ghana may not be as technologically advanced as the “1^st world” countries… (whatever that really means), but it has something truly special and unique about it.  The happiness and helpfulness of this place are two incredible things that are undeniable among its people.  “Wakame” means welcome… and I have heard this many times as they say it and smile and then say “It means welcome…welcome to our country.”

My friend, Edem, is a truly kind soul.  In fact, he has given me his own room to sleep in and been nothing but respectful and honorable.  When we arrived at his home, he poured me some Coca-Cola and we sat on his front porch and talked about our dreams for a better world.  He dreams to further his new NGO to bring a holistic progressivity to his people.  We discussed the importance of respect for the people’s culture, the importance of water, and the origins of violence.  He has support from others around the world and I have also offered my help to him as well.  I have already grown to have a strong affinity for this place.  Beautiful people.   While we talked, the call to pray played over his community.  Somehow, I found it to be beautifully comforting…

I rode the tro tro all day and a couple taxis.  Edem took me around everywhere and I knew I could turn to him if I was uncertain about anything.  He patiently guided me.  The rain came right before we left and it rained hard.  Suddenly certain areas were less safe to drive.  Still, he and I put on our raincoats and went about our way into the various regions.  (I need to ask him to write the names down so that I can better understand.)  We walked out among the wet red dirt roads and the small creeks that intertwined among them until we reached the barb-wired wall (common throughout Accra in even the wealthier areas) that contained his small community.  Eventually, we came to the street and walked to an unmarked area.  This is where we were going to find our first tro tro.  Several cars drove by honking or shouting to see if we wanted a ride.  Edem motioned them on until the tro tro we wanted came.  It wasn’t marked with a destination of any kind… so I asked him, “how does someone know this is the right one?”  He just chuckled.  He already told me earlier, that one just has to spend a lot of time there to finally learn how to get around.

This tro tro was an old probably early nineties shuttle type van that was playing uplifting reggae music on the radio and a driver and collector (for money and to get people on and off.)  They were working hard.  Occasionally, I saw a smile, but for the most part they were in the zone.  The van was full of people, but they continued to collect more beyond capacity.  Regardless, everyone was respectful of each other.  The way that people drive here is incredible.  You absolutely MUST be alert if you drive here.

Then, we were dropped off at a junction where there were many other tro tros that went to different places.  People shouted towards us so that we may ride with them.  We quickly found our next tro tro and waited for people.  It didn’t take too long before it, too, was full of people and we were on our way.  (no music this time)  As is common with tro tros, however, this one happened to break down.  Everyone waited rather patiently as the two worker rigged the van back into working order.  Thankfully, this only lasted for around 10-15 minutes and everyone rejoiced as we were driving once again.  Soon the traffic was thick and we were barely able to move for a short time.  As we were sitting in the traffic, vendors would walk among the cars with various items to sell that they carried on their heads.  I asked Edem if these were any of the kayayei.  He told me no.  These people work for themselves, but the kayayei worked for the vendors and made much much less.  He and I agreed that the best way for me to really know anything about the kayayei was for me to witness them at work in the marketplace.  (This is part of the plan for tomorrow.  My new friend, Yusef, may join us as well.)  Edem and I lamented the fact that too many people relied on poor research that was not gathered from experience among the locals themselves.  People need to leave the hotels and mix in with the local people and talk to them for a deeper and more accurate understanding.  This helps us to distinguish between truth and assumption before we pass things on.

Soon, we landed at the local Accra Mall- Shoprite.  Outside were people all around trying to hail rides or walking about.  The stylist in me couldn’t help but notice how fashionable some of the people are… like some of the hippest places in America or Europe that I have been blessed to see.  Also, some women of all ages were beautifully dressed in traditional clothing instead.  There was a great variety of people there along with quite a few foreigners from Asia—both Chinese and Indian–to Europe and America.  There were also people who dressed to show their Muslim faith.  This is where I did my currency exchange and got a new calling card for my phone since it had already run out.  We shared a veggie pizza, too, which was really good.  It was $16 for a medium pizza. Continental food cost significantly more… comparable to what we pay anywhere else.

It was a day full of more tro tro rides and another couple of taxi rides.  I was welcomed into a religious Christian elder’s humble home where I was welcomed and joined in prayer with him and Edem and his significant friend, Amma.  I walked briefly through busy marketplaces in the evening where I got some dried plantain chips and Nescafe coffee.  Amma was so sweet to stop the coffee guy for me and get it ordered.  When I didn’t have a small enough cedi bill, she covered me.  I told her I would definitely take care of her for that and she just smiled and chuckled.  However, when I returned to the van with the coffee, Edem was already kindly paying her back on my behalf.  I bought us dinner tonight, but I still owe him more.  Dinner was Kenkey (ken kay).  I found myself once again eating whole fishes with their faces staring at me.  (didn’t eat the heads.. not supposed to)  Hey… when in Rome… right?  Regardless, it was rather delicious.

After dinner, I used the outhouse, which is shared by the community and surprisingly cleaner than I expected.  It was very simple, but well maintained with a light.  Then, I bathed in a standing shower stall with a bucket of rainwater that was collected earlier in the day.  As I was bathing, I couldn’t help but think that it was really not so bad at all.  The key is just to wash your self in parts.  (my hair was last)  I shaved and everything and came out feeling refreshed.  I really appreciate this simple way of life.

Now, here I am.. about to go to sleep in Edem’s room.  He is so kind to lend it to me while he sleeps in another room due to concern about my comfort.  Tomorrow, we wake up bright and early for church.  I told him that I wanted to go.  It starts at 7am… we should catch the sunrise.  I believe this will add to the spiritual experience with God.  Afterwards, it will be back to the research.   Yusef told me that he believes the kayayei will really like me.  I hope so.

The landscape in this part of the world is drenched with a tireless strength of spirit that has faced adversities of many kinds from environmental struggles to political and economical exploitation.  Still, somehow there is a beautiful pureness to these people.  We should respect and strive to learn to them.  I feel like there are many first world citizens that don’t seem to really get this, and instead they feel that people in third-world countries need to somehow be “brought up” to the first-world level.  But, take a look at us all.  The structures we are built on are not sustainable and are rather production oriented rather than holistically oriented.  Hopefully, one day we will find a good middle-ground.

As I relaxed at Edem’s, I hear many people outside shouting with joy as they watched Chelsea and (forgot the other team) playing soccer (football to the rest of the world).  When their favorite team won, there was great rejoicing.   I am realizing that these people are already quite precious to me… it is as though I had some kind of connection with them that has been revealed.  I love them already.

Once again.. thank you for taking the time to read this blog… much love to you, dear friends and family.